It's time to voice my fears…
Three years ago, I had never ridden more than a short commute to work and back. I didn't own any lycra and I had never fixed a bike puncture. I was living in Thailand and coming to the end of a post-doctoral contract, followed by six weeks of free time before the start of a three-year fellowship at Imperial College in London. I was desperate for a personal challenge of a sporting/adventurous nature, before starting my new life back in the UK. A bunch of things happened – it's hard to explain without simply saying that the Universe had a plan in store. Before I knew it, I owned a bike and was hatching the plan – a solo ride down the East coast of Thailand, taking me from Bangkok to Krabi province, where I planned to live on the beach for a month, rock climbing. ‘Why fly or take the train, when you can cycle there?’, I thought.
With almost no training, I invested a small fortune into my adventure and spent the evenings either reading cycle-touring websites or speaking to cycling friends (old and new), desperate to learn every piece of information I could. A good friend who was about to depart on an Asia-Europe ride showed me how to change an inner tube; I practiced twice in my living room (it was HARD!). He also went shopping with me: I bought waterproof panniers, a bike-mountable GPS, riding gloves, helmet, padded bike shorts, spare brake and gear cables, handlebars with extended ends on them, etc. I took advice from a British-Thai couple who had ridden the route previously, as well as others. And then I set off.
The first 25 km were very hard. I wondered what I was doing and why on Earth I was doing it. From nowhere, a bunch of road cyclists appeared, overtook me, raced on ahead – I tried to keep up for a few kilometres and eventually couldn't. I let them go faster but, with that, I got a sudden enthusiasm and sense of community (‘Hey look, I'm not the only mad cyclist in Thailand’). I took a left turn and came face to face with the ocean. Here, 30 km into a 650 km challenge, I thought for the first time: ‘I may, just may, be able to pull this one off…’.
That day I rode 36 km before reaching my planned stop. I felt great!
On my riding days I woke at 5.45 am, ate breakfast, packed the panniers and set off by 6.30 am, riding until about 10.30 am. Then I ate a second breakfast (delicious Thai street food) and rode until 1.00 pm or until I reached a hostel/guesthouse. On the longer days I would hide from the sun between 1.00 pm and 2.00 pm and then continue riding. One day it took 110 km before I found a guesthouse. I don't think I could have made another kilometre on the road that day, and I cannot explain in words the feeling of relief when I checked in. This was made even sweeter by the view of the ocean from the hammock as I drifted off to sleep feeling very content with myself.
My bike (named Greta) performed exceptionally – I had no injuries, remarkably no pain (!) and not even a single puncture! The ride was by far the best challenge I had ever set myself, and a remarkable growth-inducing experience.
Post-110km amazingness in Thailand. |
Training in Thailand, with Suchin. |
Hi Julie. I empathise. The challenge is truly daunting, even with some training and ultra-padded shorts. Your Thailand trip contributes valuable experience and realism. Personally, I'll cycle as far as I can and feel proud of that, even if I don't complete the whole 370km. We have a good back up team, who will pick us up from the dusty roadside if we've had enough. See you!
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